The Ruins of the Soviet Space Program in Kazakhstan Are in a Hangar That Embodies Both Death and Fascination

  • On Nov. 15, 1988, the USSR’s Buran spacecraft launched for the first and last time.

  • Today, two of these shuttles remain, gathering dust in a guarded and inaccessible hangar at the Baikonur Cosmodrome.

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Hidden in abandoned hangars in the middle of the Kazakh Steppe lie two spacecraft that never flew. These are relics of the ambitious Buran program, the Soviet Union’s response to NASA’s Space Shuttle. Today, they’re among the most sought-after destinations for urban explorers from around the world who visit the Baikonur Cosmodrome in the Kazakh city of Baikonur.

Buran: An Abandoned Space Program

Though the similarities between the Buran and the U.S. space shuttles are apparent, the Buran shuttles, built in the 1980s, featured significant improvements. They could fly autonomously without a crew, had greater maneuverability, and promised enhanced safety for cosmonauts during both launch and re-entry.

While the U.S. shuttle launched by igniting its main engines along with an external solid fuel tank, the Buran was independent of the rocket. For its transfer, it could take off like an airplane. Meanwhile, for launching into space, it could be attached to Energia, the most powerful Soviet rocket ever built. In fact, this launch vehicle represented the pinnacle of Soviet technological achievement during the space race.

Kazakhstan

Having an autonomous rocket not only improved the safety and flexibility of Buran launches but also presented a cost-effective option that could outmaneuver NASA’s pricing. The Energia rocket was designed as a low-cost heavy launcher, costing only slightly more than any of the three main engines on the U.S. Space Shuttle. This meant that a complete rocket could be produced for the price of a single engine.

Despite its potential, the Buran program ultimately fell victim to a lack of funding. Only one spacecraft, also named Buran (meaning “blizzard” in Russian), successfully reached space on an unmanned flight on Nov. 15, 1988. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union, the program was officially canceled in 1993, leaving the already constructed shuttles to fade into obscurity.

From Oblivion to Fascination

Kazakhstan

The Baikonur Cosmodrome, located in Kazakhstan but under Russian control, was at the heart of the Soviet space race. Today, it remains the launch site for various Russian rockets, including the Soyuz and Proton.

Two abandoned Buran launchers are within a large hangar known as MZK. One is named Ptichka, which was designed to fly but never did. The other is a test prototype. These are the only remaining Buran launchers. In 2002, the roof of another hangar collapsed, tragically killing eight workers and burying the only Buran model that had actually flown.

In recent years, the relics of the Buran program have become a part of the urban exploration movement, where enthusiasts explore and photograph abandoned places. Explorers from around the world continue to traverse the desert and take risks to infiltrate these heavily guarded facilities.

In 2017, the YouTuber Ninurta posted a video showcasing the interior of these shuttles, revealing cabins stripped of instruments and empty cargo bays. Around the same time, French photographer David de Rueda visited the hangar and captured stunning images of the shuttles.

The appeal of the site lies not only in the history of these forgotten shuttles but also in the challenge of accessing them. Those who attempt the journey must traverse long distances across the Kazakh Steppe, endure extreme temperatures, and avoid the area’s security. De Rueda said in an interview, “Getting there was an epic adventure. We didn’t know if we would make it because the Kazakh Steppe is a hostile environment. But it was entirely worth it.”

Earlier in 2024, a French tourist tragically died of dehydration near the Baikonur Cosmodrome. However, Russian media reported that he wasn’t trying to reach the Buran hangar but rather a subway facility. In response, authorities have increased security in the area, which has only heightened the fascination with these enormous space shuttles that never flew.

As the two surviving spacecraft continue to deteriorate, some advocate for their preservation and transfer to a museum. Others view these relics as time capsules, believing their true appeal lies in their neglected state.

Image | Panikovskij (CC BY-SA 4.0)

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